-everyone is blonde
-everyone wears Nikes
-I can’t tell if anyone is gay
-everyone is white
-lots of shawarma food
-7-Elevens are everywhere
-slot machines in bars?
-Carhartt everywhere
-the honor system prevails
-freakin expensive
-beards are not in (or have they not arrived yet?)
-people are nice in ways I didn’t know existed
-doesn’t get dark until 10:45 PM
-sun rises at 3:30 AM
-Irish girls bring out the fun
-playing the Macarena in bars is acceptable
My first impressions of Copenhagen were nothing short of a mild disappointment. My expectations of the city were calibrated for the lively, cosmopolitan energy I experienced prior to coming, and my arrival was a bit anti-climactic. The city can feel bland at times: the prevailing 19th-century constructions that line most of the streets create a curtain of red-brick Haussmann-like repetitive dullness. Racially, the city is homogenous: white, blonde, handsome. The local culture is so pleasant, it would seem everyone is sedated; zombies medicated into a state of complacent friendliness. It took this skeptical American several days to understand that there are entirely different social paradigms here. Just lock your bike’s back wheel to the frame; no need to chain it in maximum-security fashion to a pole. People will trust your word without much questioning. The honor system prevails. Nothing made my pessimism more evident than when it was contrasted with the convivial demeanor of Copenhageners. I am aware, however that several factors shaped this impression: a) most locals thought I was Danish (see: everyone is blonde; everyone is white), and b) having come out of another harsh Scandinavian winter, the general mood of the city during the season of 19-hour daylight is a palpable mixture of relief and bliss.
Taking these first impressions, I was quick to say the city is too homogenous, both in built form and social climate. A small city in a very small country. Once these premises are accepted, however, I was able to relax in this surprisingly open and fluid city.
The gay scene in Copenhagen is quite small, but I was informed this was because there was little need for the separation of sexualities. Many locals prided themselves for contribution to a city that embraces a mixture of so-called “minorities”— code for gay men and anyone who’s skin tone is darker than than the “2” on my toaster. This made things especially difficult for me because I had to recalibrate my gaydar to the “Euro” setting, which is undergoing maintenance at the moment. Back in San Francisco, someone may not look gay, but I can smell it on them.
From the outside, Copenhagen is viewed by some as the “hippie city”, not because of its terribly liberal or open vibe, nor because of any lax treatment of marijuana sales (outside Christiania), but because the people are slow, participating in a pace of life that is lazy and relaxed, and high fashion is not a common sight. The general garb appears functional and comfortable, without seeming too Freshman-in-college (think solid sportswear, not sweatpants).
All in all, what struck me most is that this is a city where nothing has happened to them. There isn’t really any cultural trauma to live with, as you might see in Berlin or New York, and their worst period appears to be the “motor invasion”, a period from the 40’s-70’s in which the country’s affluence brought an influx of cars to the city center. The city is clean and orderly and functioning. Its people are content with their lifestyle, but they seem to have no idea that getting a Master’s degree isn’t free most other places.
Copenhagen, you were good to me. Thanks for teaching me to relax.
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